It's easy to take part. Simply choose an hour between 23 and 25 January to sit and watch the birds in your garden. Record only the birds that land in your patch and the highest number of each bird species you see at any one time. For example, if five house sparrows come in and then leave, but seven sparrows turn up later within that hour, you record seven house sparrows. It's also important to submit a record even if you didn't see any birds – this is just as helpful to those crunching the numbers as actual sightings.

Visit Big Garden Birdwatch for more details and tips on how and where to spot birds.

In the meantime, here are 12 you're likely to see.

1. House sparrow, Passer domesticus

This gregarious garden bird often nests in holes in buildings or in grouped nest boxes on house walls. The male has a streaked brown back, brown head and neck, with a grey cap and black bib. Females and juveniles are less distinctly marked, with streaky backs and no bib. House sparrows feed on seeds and grains in autumn and winter, but in spring they need access to a plentiful supply of small invertebrates to feed their developing chicks. Although still among the most common birds in UK gardens, house sparrow populations have significantly declined in the past 50 years.

2. Blue tit, Cyanistes caeruleus

With its blue cap and wings, this charming, colourful tit is a familiar sight in many gardens. Feeding on peanuts and sunflower hearts at garden feeders, the adults collect caterpillars and other insects to feed to their young in spring and early summer. Blue tits commonly nest in garden bird boxes which mimic holes in trees – their natural nest sites. In winter they travel through woods and gardens in groups, often with other tits and small birds such as goldcrests.

3. Starling, Sturnus vulgaris

Starlings are striking birds – black with white, green and blue iridescent markings that become more prominent in winter. They gather in large flocks to feed and roost. At dusk they fly in huge synchronised 'murmurations' thought to offer protection for individuals within the flock from avian predators such as peregrine falcons. They visit garden bird feeders in winter and feed on invertebrates in summer. Groups of starlings can sometimes be seen picking leatherjackets (cranefly larvae) out of lawns. They can often be heard whistling and singing – starlings are wonderful mimics. Unfortunately, the UK’s breeding population has declined by more than 50 per cent in the past 25 years.

4. Woodpigeon, Columba palumbus

The ubiquitous woodpigeon is actually a remarkably attractive bird with a soft pink breast, blue-grey head and white neck patch. It is the UK’s largest pigeon, and pairs nest year-round, although their main breeding season is in the summer. Woodpigeons eat insects and a wide range of plant material. They can be seen in parks, gardens, woodland and fields all across the UK.

5. Blackbird, Turdus merula

Male blackbirds are black with a yellow beak and yellow eye-rings, while females are brown and speckled, rather like a song thrush, though the speckles are not as distinctive on a female blackbird. Blackbirds eat mainly invertebrates and fruit. They tend to nest in between forked branches in shrubs, trees and climbers, so areas in gardens with mature, dense planting are ideal for these common thrushes. You might hear snatches of blackbird subsong in winter before the breeding season gets underway, then male blackbirds start singing with gusto around the beginning of March - a beautiful sound that heralds the arrival of spring. In some milder regions of the UK, however, the full song can be heard as early as December, possibly due in part to warmer winters as a result of climate change.

6. Robin, Erithacus rubecula

Fiercely territorial, the robin sings throughout the year, and its trickling song is thought to sound more mournful in winter. Robins are ground feeders, so they tend to come to bird tables rather than hanging feeders, and prefer seed mixes and sunflower hearts to peanuts. You can also spot them searching for worms on lawns. Males and females look alike, and juveniles are brown and spotty without the red chest of the adults. Robins are fearsome fighters among their own kind, but often follow gardeners around to catch invertebrates that are unearthed during digging. Sometimes garden robins become quite tame.

7. Blackcap

The blackcap is a British resident although rarely comes into gardens, and overwinters in the Mediterranean. However some German blackcaps overwinter in the UK, and are more likely to visit gardens, particularly in cold weather. Greyish all over, only the male has a black cap, the female’s is chestnut brown. Blackcaps feed on berries and – unlike other garden birds –seem to like the berries of beauty berry, Callicarpa bodinieri. They have a reputation for being a bit of a bully at the bird feeder, chasing off other birds and not letting them feed. So if they come into your garden you will know about it!

8. Redwing

The UK's smallest true thrush, the redwing is mostly a winter visitor from Scandinavia although there is a small number of breeding pairs in the far north of Scotland. It has a creamy strip above its eye and orange-red patches under the crease of its wings. It typically gathers in flocks, often with fieldfares, and roams the countryside, feeding in fields and hedgerows on berries and windfall apples. It rarely visits gardens, except in the coldest conditions when snow covers the fields. If it’s cold over the garden birdwatch, leave halved apples out on the ground and keep your fingers crossed.

9. Fieldfare

Another winter thrush to look out for is the fieldfare. This is a large thrush, about the size of a mistle thrush. It has a grey head and rump, black tail, reddish cream-and black-speckled chest and flanks, and chestnut-brown back and wings. Fieldfares spend winter in flocks, often alongside redwings. Like redwings they roam the countryside in search of berries and fallen apples. They have a harsh ‘chack-chack’ call.

10. Long-tailed tit

The long-tailed tit is an increasingly common sight in gardens. Like a little flying badger, it has a blush-pink and white body, with a black and white striped head. Its tail is longer than its body. Long-tailed tits are usually found in small flocks of up to 20 birds, and seem to fly from one tree to another cautiously, egged on with a little ‘deet-deet’ from its clan. Like most tits, long-tailed tits scout woods and hedgerows for insects and other morsels, but will also visit gardens to snack on peanuts and suet treats.

11. Waxwing

The waxwing is a gregarious winter visitor and rarely turns up in gardens although some years this is more likely than others and this year there are rumours that we’re having a ‘waxwing winter’. A winter migrant from Scandinavia, it’s about the size of a starling and looks like it’s wearing 1980s make-up. Reddish-brown with a black throat, it has a prominent orange crest and black masks around the eyes. Its wings have yellow and white markings and it has a yellow-tipped tail. It’s thought that large winter ‘irruptions’ are due to food availability in Scandinavia. They feed on berries, particularly rowan and hawthorn, although will also eat rosehips. They will come into gardens when food availability is scarce, so keep an eye out!

12. Greenfinch

The greenfinch is a large finch, mostly olive-green in colour with a yellow patch on the wings and tail. Females are less colourful. They make a twittering and wheezing song that’s most often heard in spring. A common sight in gardens, they eat sunflower seeds although the disease trichomoniasis – a parasitic disease passed between birds at feeding stations and bird baths – has seen dramatic declines in populations. To help stop the spread, make sure to keep your bird feeders clean. In winter, greenfinches forage with other finches, such as goldfinches and chaffinches, and are often seen ‘hogging’ the bird feeder.

Wild carrots will attract pollinators when they are showing off their umbrella-like clusters of flowers in summer. They will add a naturalistic feel to your garden, working very well in a wild corner of the garden and in an area of cottage garden style planting. The long flower stems also make an elegant display in a vase indoors. Unlike their close relatives, wild carrots are not good for eating, with small, bitter roots compared to commercially grown edible carrot varieties.

Contact with the leaves of wild carrot may cause skin irritation so wear gloves and cover your arms if handling the plant. Wild carrot flowers will attract pollinators such as bees, wasps and hoverflies and they are a food plant for migrant swallowtail butterflies. In the wild they can be confused with the highly toxic plant hemlock. Wild carrot plants tend to be shorter and unlike hemlock they have hairy leaves, and green stems. The stems of hemlock are smooth and blotched with purple.

Where to grow

Wild carrots grow and germinate best in a light, free-draining soil, ideally in a sunny part of the garden, although they will tolerate being shaded for part of the day. They will grow well in nutrient-poor soils which are suitable for establishing a wildflower meadow. In richer soils they are likely to make tall, leafy plants but may not flower as well. In the wild they grow on thin, chalky soils. Growing 75-1.5m tall and up to 50cm wide, wild carrots make very useful ‘filler-plants’ for borders. Grown from seed, it’s easy to add them to your garden in large numbers for ‘repeat-planting’ through a planting scheme.

How to sow

Sow the seed directly onto garden soil in a sunny, well-drained spot. Sow onto damp, weed-free soil and cover with a layer of sieved compost so the seed is just covered. Sow the seed thinly to make thinning out easier. Thinning out releases the scent of the foliage and the roots, attracting carrot fly, which will lay eggs near the roots. Once seedlings are 8cm tall, remove any unwanted seedlings to leave a plant every 20cm. Wild carrots form a single taproot which can be damaged when transplanted, so sowing in trays and transplanting into modules is best avoided. However, wildflower suppliers may offer plug plants. Plant them as soon as you receive them, then water them in well. Water again during dry spells in the first year.

How to care for wild carrots

Wild carrots need little care through the growing season. The most important task is to remove weeds growing close by as the plants develop, to reduce competition for water and nutrients. Autumn and March-sown plants may flower in their first summer, especially in a warm spot but later sowings or sowings in a shadier spots may just form leaves in the first year, forming flower spikes the year after.

How to propagate wild carrots

Prompt removal of old flowerheads will keep more flowers coming through summer. But leave some intact on the plant in autumn and you will have the possibility of some useful winter structure in the garden. Even better, the plants will naturally self-seed, giving lots of plants for free for next year. You can also collect the seed and save it for sowing in spring so you have plants exactly where you want them. As the seedheads age they curl inwards and the flowerheads form a bird’s nest shape. Collect seed when the flowerheads have turned brown and are dry. Snip the heads off and turn them upside down, shaking the seeds into a dry brown paper envelope. Put it into a sealed sandwich box, with a sachet of silica gel, then keep in the bottom of the fridge to keep cool until you are ready to sow.

Pest and diseases

Carrot fly is the main threat to wild carrots. The larvae tunnel into the roots which can cause foliage to yellow and badly affected plants can die. To avoid releasing the scent which attracts carrot fly, remove unwanted seedlings on a still day and in the evening when the flies are less active. Water the soil before removing them, to avoid breaking the roots, which releases the scent.

While the method of pruning varies according to the type of tree, shrub, or climber, there's one rule that applies to all plants: to remove the 3 ‘D’s – any growth that is dead, diseased, or damaged. Start with that and then move on to the specific pruning or shaping required by each plant. These are the key ones to tackle now:

Apple and pear trees

Bush or half-standard apple and pear trees – those which are free-standing rather than trained to cordon or espalier shapes – really benefit from regular pruning every winter. Otherwise, they become straggly, overgrown, less productive and harder to harvest from. Cutting back branches and shoots in the dormant season will concentrate next spring’s sap flow, resulting in strong growth.

In the first few years of a fruit tree’s life, prune to create a sturdy framework of branches. Medium and large apple trees benefit from having vigorous young shoots cut back and overcrowded branches thinned in winter. Aim to create a wine-glass shape, with evenly spaced branches coming up from the trunk around an open centre. This encourages allows maximum light and air through the tree, helping prevent diseases which would flourish in stagnant air, and boosting fruit ripening.

Formative pruning

• Take out or reduce any branches that are growing vertically upright, as the fruit will be out of reach and difficult to harvest.
• Remove crossing branches that might rub and create wounds which are entry points for disease
• Remove any thin shoots and branches
• Always cut back to the joint with the branch or trunk rather than shortening branches, which would result in a cluster of thin shoots next year

Pruning to boost fruiting

Once the main formative pruning is complete, tackle the smaller shoots of last season’s growth by reducing sideshoots back to between four and six buds from the base. The younger stems are silvery-grey in colour, so are easy to distinguish from the older, brown branches. This encourages the formation of knobbly, spur-like shoots that will bear fruit.

Currant bushes

Regular winter pruning keeps soft fruit bushes cropping at their best.

Blackcurrants fruit best on younger growth, so once bushes are several years old, get in the habit of taking out some of the oldest branches every winter. Take out around a quarter of the thickest, oldest branches, cutting close to the ground. If possible, cut to an outward-facing bud. Aim to create a goblet shape, leaving healthy young branches that will produce large crops in years to come.

Red and white currants. These need similar, but less severe, treatment. Mature bushes should have one or two of the oldest stems removed as described for blackcurrants. Then, reduce the previous year’s stems by around a third to a half.

Grapevines

Pruning vines must only be done right in the middle of the dormant period, from late November to around mid-January, because vines bleed sap freely if done at other times and this is bad for the health of the plant. Grapes form on new growth, so cut the old, fruited stems back to the main framework of the vine.

Deciduous native hedges

Native hedge plants such as hawthorn, blackthorn, hazel, and field maple make magnificent wildlife-friendly hedges, either trimmed to shape annually, or ‘cut and laid’ to create a more solid barrier. Cut back as much or as little is needed. January is the ideal time, once hedgerow fruit has been eaten by birds and mammals, and crucially, before the bird nesting season starts.

To lay a hedge, select stems that are several years old and, using a small sharp axe, cut most of the way through the stem, close to the ground. Then, gently bend them down diagonally, so the sap runs freely through them.

Overgrown deciduous shrubs

Winter is the ideal time to rejuvenate almost any deciduous shrub whose branches are overcrowded in the centre, or to tackle any which have become misshapen.

Assess the shrub and select no more than a third of the thickest stems to take out. Aim to cut these out as near to the ground as possible. Where growth has become tangled, cut long stems into several sections for easy removal. Prune out any stems that rub against each other, aiming to create an open-centred canopy that allows air to circulate freely. Remember to take out any stems that are dead, diseased, or damaged, too.

Renovating mature shrubs should be done over a period of three years, gradually removing the oldest stems and encouraging new, more productive ones to grow up.

Wisteria

Wisteria is a magnificent and large-growing flowering climber, though plants do need to be kept in hand by pruning to avoid becoming a tangled mass of long, thin, whippy side shoots.

By pruning in winter as well as summer, you will encourage the development of short spurs that carry the flowers in spring. In summer, the many lateral side shoots should be cut back to five to six buds from the main stems. Now, in January, these should be cut back further, to two to three buds.

Stuck for inspiration? We’ve come up with 10 resolutions you might consider for the garden this year, along with tips on how to achieve (and stick to) them.

Browse our suggestions for new year gardening resolutions, below.

• What are the strangest gardening world records?
• RHS predicts the biggest garden trends in 2026

Grow more houseplants

Growing houseplants has surged in popularity in recent years. It’s no wonder: houseplants can improve air quality in your home, help to relieve stress and aid concentration. They’re easy to grow and many of them will tolerate shade and neglect.

More on growing houseplants:

• Houseplants with large leaves
• Foolproof houseplants to grow
• Must-have houseplants

Use less plastic

Many of us want to use less plastic in the garden, from plant labels to watering cans, tools, plant pots and the sheeting used to suppress weeds. Buying (and therefore using) less plastic will not only reduce your plastic footprint, but will also send a message to manufacturers that gardeners want alternatives to plastic (especially single-use plastic).

More on using less plastic

• Gardening with less plastic
• Information on plastic and recycling

Go organic

Whether you grow your own food or not, gardening organically is much better for the health of your garden. By not using pesticides, you’ll provide a safe source of food for bees and other pollinators, as well as boosting insect numbers. This means more food for birds and other insect predators, which may then choose to nest in your garden.

More on organic gardening:

• Organic pest control
• How to make a comfrey feed
• Three ways to control slugs organically

Compost your waste

Homemade compost is invaluable in the garden, providing you with a fantastic soil improver and mulch, as well as wildlife such as bumblebees and slow worms with a place to live. It's easy to set a compost bin up, whether you buy a ready-made bin or make your own.

More on composting:

• How to make compost
• Types of composter
• Four ways to better compost
• How to compost woody stems

Be water wise

We gardeners use a lot of water to keep our plants healthy. If using mains water, not only does watering cost you money (if you're on a meter), but potentially it can put pressure on water reserves, especially in dry weather. Installing a water butt or three can help you reduce your reliance on mains water. What's more, some plants benefit from being watered with rain water. You can connect water butts to downpipes from the roof or your home, but also assemble guttering systems around the roof of your shed or greenhouse. The more water butts you use, the more water you save.

You can also save water by mulching around plants to prevent evaporation from the soil, using water-retaining crystals in container displays, avoiding using sprinklers and growing drought-tolerant plants.

More on saving water:

• Saving water in the garden
• Dealing with drought in the garden
• How to fit guttering on a greenhouse

Keep on top of weeds

If left to get out of hand, weeds can quickly take take light and nutrients from plants you want to grow. Regularly weeding around cultivated plants can help prevent weeds from growing too big, but few gardeners weed as often as they would like to. Just 10 minutes of weeding before you get started on more enjoyable garden jobs can really make a difference.

More on weeding:

• Weeding without chemicals
• Five ways to eradicate garden weeds
• Weeding garden paths
• How to weed by hand

Grow more of your own food

Few gardeners have the time or space to be completely sufficient, but you may enjoy growing a few crops while being rewarded with home-grown veg. Start with easy-to-grow crops such as potatoes, courgettes and runner beans. But, if you're an experienced grower, why not grow a new variety or two each year? Choose anything from a different variety of squash or bean, to more unusual crops such as sweet potatoes, yams and okra.

More on growing your own food:

• Pumpkins and squash to grow
• How to make the most of a small veg plot
• Grow your own Christmas dinner

Plant a tree

The environmental benefits of planting trees are clear: trees absorb carbon dioxide, help reduce flooding and can also contribute to reducing urban temperatures. What's more, if you choose carefully, your tree can provide food and shelter for wildlife.

More on planting trees:

• Trees with attractive bark
• Choosing a fruit tree rootstock
• Fast-growing trees
• 10 trees with beautiful spring blossom

Welcome wildlife

Whether you decide to feed the birds, dig a pond, plant flowers for pollinators or let areas of your garden grow wild for hedgehogs and other small mammals to take shelter, welcoming wildlife to your garden is hugely rewarding. Many species are declining and by gardening for wildlife we can help to boost their numbers.

More on wildlife gardening:

• Garden wildlife jobs for April
• 10 plants for butterflies
• 10 ways to help hedgehogs

Go peat-free

It's long been cited as an environmentally unfriendly choice when potting up plants, as the removal of peat from peat bogs destroys wildlife habitats, while releasing carbon into the atmosphere. Yet peat-based composts are still widely available to buy in garden centres and nurseries. More peat-free options are becoming available, however, made using bark, wood fibre, wool and coir. While peat-free options have been hit-and-miss in the past, new mixes are proving popular with gardeners, and include seed-sowing and ericaceous formulas. So, why not give it a try? When buying compost, simply check the label to make sure it's peat-free, or buy online.

Organic matter is also available in the form of slow-release fertilisers or blood, fish and bone. Organic liquid fertilisers can work to feed the soil but they are mostly taken up immediately by plant roots, therefore giving little back to the soil. Lastly, the 'chop and drop' system of mulching soil with chopped up leaves or grass clippings can also work well, offering a natural, slow-release solution to dry, weedy, nutrient-poor soils.

Why feed the soil?

Feeding the soil increases nutrients and water retention, and improves soil structure. While feeding the soil every couple of years will keep your garden looking good and your ornamental plants growing and flowering well, feeding the soil is much more important in the vegetable patch. After all, your plants are only as healthy as the soil they're growing in – it makes sense to ensure the fruit and veg you eat are growing in the healthiest soil possible.

More on composting and feeding the soil:

• Five mulches to use
• How to make compost
• How to make leaf mould
• World Soil Day

We outline five benefits of feeding your soil with organic matter, below.

Improve the soil structure

Bulky materials like home-made garden compost, well rotted manure or leaf mould break down and release nutrients slowly. As they break down they're eaten by earthworms and other detritivores, which move through the soil, creating drainage channels. Bulky materials can therefore lighten heavy soils, helping them to drain more easily. On lighter, sandy soils, organic matter helps increase water retention, as the matter is naturally more water retentive than the soil itself. So-called 'sticky' manures, like pig manures, are particularly useful on very sandy soils.

Increase soil nutrient levels

When you add artificial fertilisers to soil you add soluble nutrients, which are washed away if not immediately absorbed by the plants. By adding organic matter, which breaks down over time, you add nutrients that stay in the soil and are absorbed more slowly. All organic matter has nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, plus trace elements such as magnesium, copper and manganese. As earthworms take organic matter into the soil to eat it, they create their own manure. Bacteria, fungi and other micro organisms get to work on the matter as well, which aids the uptake of soil nutrients by plant roots.

Be more eco-friendly

Artificial fertilisers come with a high carbon and environmental footprint. They're made with raw materials such as ammonia and phosphate rock. The mining of phosphate rock can cause severe environmental damage, including loss of biodiversity, while the process of converting the raw materials into useable fertiliser involves the use of petrol or natural gas.

What's more, if not absorbed by the plants, artificial fertilisers can be washed away by rains, eventually winding up in rivers. The increase in nitrogen to rivers can cause algal blooms, which can smother and kill all forms of other life in the water, including fish.

Adding organic matter will help you to avoid all of these pitfalls.

Save money

While some forms of organic matter can be expensive to buy, home-made compost is free. You don't need a compost bin – simply pile compost into a corner of the garden and harvest the compost once a year to add to your garden. Other types of mulch, for example grass and leaf clippings, also cost little, if anything, to produce. Green manures such as phacelia cost as little as a packet of seed. What's more, your local stables might sell manure for as little as a pound a bag, or even give it away for free. Compare this to synthetic fertilisers, which need applying as regularly as every fortnight.

Improve the biodiversity of your garden

A garden rich in wildlife comes with free pollination and pest control services. It's also nicer for us – who doesn't love seeing birds, bees and butterflies in the garden?

A compost heap is the perfect spot for a nesting bumblebee, hungry frog or sleeping hedgehog. Bulky organic matter such as home-made compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure, creates further habitats for beetles, worms, centipedes and other invertebrates on the ground, while it breaks down. This increase in abundance of soil invertebrates means there's more food for animals further up the food chain, including birds and hedgehogs, making your garden alive with food and nesting opportunities for a wealth of wild species.

Where to grow lavatera

Lavatera grow best in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun, ideally in a sheltered spot out of cold, drying winds. They won’t thrive in windy positions or waterlogged soil.

When to plant lavatera

Annual lavatera can be sown from seed in early spring and planted out in late spring. Perennial varieties can be bought as young plants and planted out in spring, providing the ground isn't waterlogged or frozen.

How to plant lavatera

Sow annual lavatera seeds in trays under cover. When seedlings are large enough to handle, pot on and harden off before planting out into borders. When planting perennial or shrubby lavatera, dig a generous hole, adding compost for drainage and a handful of mycorrhizal fungi to encourage good root development.

If you're growing lavatera in a container, choose a compact variety and a container with good drainage holes. Plant perennial and shrubby lavatera in a soil-based compost, such as peat-free John Innes No. 3. Place the container in a sheltered, sunny spot, for example in front of a south-facing wall.

How to care for lavatera

Lavatera are easy to grow and shouldn't require feeding or watering once established in the ground. Plants in containers will benefit from annual top dressing with an organic mulch and they'll need regular watering in hot weather.

One advantage of growing lavatera in containers is that it's quick and easy to bring tender varieties into an unheated greenhouse over the winter. Plants in containers only require minimal watering during the winter.

How to prune lavatera

Herbaceous perennial lavatera will die back in winter. Leave dead material over the winter months to provide shelter for wildlife and cut back in early spring before the new growth begins. Prune shrubby lavatera, such as Lavatera maritima, in spring. Cut stems back to within a bud or two of the previous year’s cuts to maintain the woody framework and remove any dead, diseased, damaged or crossing stems.

Sub-shrubs like ‘Barnsley’ and ‘Barnsley Baby’ should be tidied in autumn and then pruned hard in late spring by cutting stems back to 30cm from ground level. Reduce the stems of any large lavateras by up to half in autumn to prevent damage from wind rock.

How to propagate lavatera

If you want to grow your existing annual or biennial lavatera in subsequent years, let some flowerheads develop into seedpods and save the seeds. You can then sow these seeds in spring, but they might not come true, which means any new plants won’t necessarily look like their parents. Alternatively, you can take softwood cuttings from perennial and shrubby lavatera.

Pests and diseases

Lavatera are generally pest-free but can be prone to rust and fungal diseases. Remove affected foliage as and when you spot signs of disease.

Lavatera varieties to grow

Lavatera trimestris ‘Mont Blanc’ is a large bushy annual plant with masses of huge white, trumpet-shaped flowers, which are extremely attractive to bees. Height x Spread: 1m x 45cm

• Buy Lavatera trimestris 'Mont Blanc' from Chiltern Seeds

Lavatera trimestris 'Beauty Mix’ is is an annual variety that produces pink and white flowers on tall, bushy plants through the summer. The Royal Horticultural Society has awarded it its prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 90cm x 45cm

• Buy Lavatera trimestris 'Beauty Mix' from Suttons

Lavatera maritima, also known as the tree mallow, is a fast-growing medium-sized, semi-evergreen shrub. White flowers with a flush of purple appear from spring through to autumn. The RHS has given it the Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 1.5m x 1m

• Buy Lavatera maritima from Gardening Express

Lavatera ‘Barnsley’, now known as Malva x clementii 'Barnsley', is a bushy shrub variety with soft pink flowers with a darker centre. 'Barnsley' has also received the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). H x S: 2m x 1.5m

• Buy Lavatera 'Barnsley' from Crocus

Lavatera 'Barnsley Baby', now known as Malva x clementii 'Barnsley Baby', is a compact shrub variety. The white flowers of this dwarf lavatera develop a soft pink flush and the pink eyes become darker as the flowers age. H x S: 75cm x 60cm

• Buy Lavatera 'Barnsley Baby' from Dobies

Frequently asked questions

Does lavatera come back every year?

Perennial lavatera will come back every year, although plants are generally short-lived and are likely to last around five years. Annual varieties will flower until the first frosts in the year they are sown and then die.

How many times a year does lavatera flower?

Lavatera flowers once a year, but the flowering period is long, lasting from June until September.

Mahonia plants are toxic. Mahonia berries and seeds can also be toxic, especially unripe berries. They should not be eaten, particularly by pregnant women, as they can cause uterine contractions.

Where to grow mahonia

The best place to plant mahonia is in moist but well-drained soil in partial or full shade. They can be grown in full sun provided the soil remains moist. Mahonias are ideal for planting under deciduous trees or in a shady mixed border. They’re also a valuable winter plant for wildlife gardens.

Smaller varieties, such as Mahonia eurybracteata subsp. ganpinensis ‘Soft Caress’, can be grown in large containers, though they may eventually need to be planted out in the garden. Mahonias (especially larger varieties) grow best in sheltered locations where cold winds won’t scorch the foliage.

When to plant mahonia

The best time to plant mahonia is in spring or autumn when the soil is moist and the weather is mild, but not too warm. Avoid planting mahonia when the ground is waterlogged or frozen.

How to plant mahonia

Dig a generous hole, adding well-rotted compost and a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi. Plant the mahonia, making sure the rootball sits just below the surface of the soil, and firm in well. Water thoroughly.

When planting mahonia in containers, use a loam-based compost, such as peat-free John Innes No.3. Place the container in a sheltered spot in full or partial shade.

How to care for mahonia

Mahonias shouldn’t need watering once they are well established, provided the ground remains moist. Water established plants only if the soil dries out in prolonged hot periods. Apply a mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring and autumn, leaving a space around the stem, to help conserve moisture. Plants in the ground shouldn’t need regular feeding. But if plants look like they’re struggling, add a balanced fertiliser in spring. Water plants in containers regularly. Feed with a slow-release fertiliser and apply a balanced liquid feed during the growing season.

Mahonias are hardy and almost all varieties should tolerate winter temperatures in the UK. In very cold winters, plants in containers would benefit from wrapping the pot with hessian or fleece to protect both the roots and the container.

How to prune mahonia

Prune ground-cover mahonias every other year in spring after flowering to encourage bushy growth and remove unwanted suckers. Taller mahonias require little pruning, but should have unwanted suckers removed. Mahonias can be renovation pruned if necessary by cutting back old stems (no more than half of the plant) to strong growth low down. They may take a while to regrow, but should develop healthy, thicker growth in time. Prune the rest of the stems back by a third.

How to propagate mahonia

Mahonia can be successfully propagated by layering or stem cuttings in June and July.

Here, Carol Klein shows you how to take stem cuttings from an evergreen mahonia, using a special technique to cope with its large leaves:

Pests and diseases

Mahonia is generally pest-free, but look out for rusts and powdery mildew in dry weather.

Mahonia varieties to grow

Mahonia x media ‘Winter Sun’ has typical bright yellow, fragrant flowers from late autumn to late winter. It looks particularly good at the back of a shady border. Height x Spread: 4m x 4m 

• Buy Mahonia x media 'Winter Sun' from Crocus

Mahonia aquifolium is also known as the Oregon grape, indicating its North American origins. 'Apollo' is a compact cultivar that grows in a neat, spreading dome. The glossy, dark green leaves flush purple in winter with the characteristic yellow flowers appearing in early spring, followed by blue-black berries. H x S: 1m x 1.5m

• Buy Mahonia aquifolium 'Apollo' from Dobies

Mahonia repens is a creeping variety with a low-growing habit, and makes great groundcover in shady areas. The attractive foliage turns purplish in winter and bright yellow, fragrant flowers appear in spring. H x S: 0.5m x 1m

• Buy Mahonia repens from the Agroforestry Trust

Mahonia x media ‘Charity’  has an upright habit and long leaves. Stalks of bright yellow, fragrant flowers are produced at the ends of branches from late autumn to late winter. Mahonia ‘Charity’ is ideal for a shady spot at the back of a border. H x S: 4m x 4m

• Buy Mahonia x media 'Charity' from Suttons

Mahonia eurybracteata subsp. ganpinensis 'Soft Caress' is a variety with finely divided soft evergreen, bamboo-like foliage. Mahonia ‘Soft Caress’ looks completely different to other mahonias and the yellow flowers appear in late summer and autumn. H x S: 1m x 1m

• Buy Mahonia eurybracteata subsp. ganpinensis 'Soft Caress' from Crocus

Mahonia japonica bears lemon-yellow flowers from late autumn to early spring with a sweet lily-of-the-valley fragrance. Suitable for a variety of planting positions, including slopes and banks. H x S: 1.5m x 2.5

• Buy Mahonia japonica from Thompson & Morgan

Find out more about different mahonia varieties in this video clip with Carol Klein, from BBC Gardeners' World:

Frequently asked questions

How tall do mahonias grow?

Mahonias vary greatly in height depending on the variety. Some, like Mahonia ‘Charity’, can reach 5m, whereas lower growing varieties, such as Mahonia repens, might only reach 30cm.

Does mahonia spread?

Some mahonia varieties spread along the ground, producing suckers around the base. But they can be kept in check by pruning and digging out unwanted suckers. Some types of mahonia are considered invasive species in the United States, but the varieties grown in the UK are not considered invasive here.

“She gave me an ultimatum, which was quite harsh really,” he said when he joined us on the BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine Podcast.

“She said I had a choice: I could reverse it. I had, I think, a three-to-six-month window. ‘Or,’ she said, ‘at some point in your future, you're going to lose your feet’.”

For Andrew, a gardener and writer living in the Pennines, it was a terrifying wake-up call, but not an unfamiliar one.

Two decades earlier, a car accident had left him with spinal damage and the slow, painful task of relearning how to walk.

“Obviously, when you're learning to walk again in your late 20s, it's not as easy as when you're a toddler. I was in a lot of pain and I ended up getting quite depressed and sad about it. It was my consultant who recommended that I take up gardening,” he says.

“I only had a small cottage garden [at the time], but it really did pull me out of a very dark place. And that's how I got into gardening. It's the idea of planting a seed. And then that seed becomes something.

“I think it took roughly between 18 months and two years for me to give up things like walking sticks. I was in a wheelchair for a while, and it did open my eyes to how people are treated when they're in a wheelchair.”

Rebuilding a life, again

So with this latest, terrifying medical news of a type 2 diabetes diagnosis, received just before the start of the growing season in late winter, Andrew once again turned to his garden for renewal.

Within weeks, his seed potatoes for that season, lovingly chitted and ready to plant, had been given away. He knew that potatoes were off-limits, being too starchy.

“Then I looked into carrots and found out they are a no-no; they’re an occasional treat because they're still high in sugars,” he says.

“I found out that anything that grew above ground was okay for me. So I started to experiment with things like different types of lettuces.”

That was the start of a radical lifestyle change rooted in the soil. By swapping supermarket staples for homegrown salads, ditching hidden carbs, and eating in tune with the seasons, Andrew lost over 84 pounds in weight and reversed his diabetes.

“People I've not seen for quite a long time look at me and say, ‘You've lost loads of weight. How have you done it? What's your secret?’ But there's literally no secret to it. It's just we're not talking about it. And we're not talking about the carbohydrates hidden in our food.”

Checking out carbohydrate levels in supermarket food became a daily routine, Andrew adds.

“It became a weird kind of game between me and my wife, Carol, when we were in the supermarket, shouting at each other across the aisle, ‘Do you know how much carbohydrate is in this? We used to eat this by the ton!’ So we ditched things like white bread, white pasta, and rice, and we started to go for wholemeal choices.

“I noticed the more weight I lost, the more I could do in the garden. The more energy I had to do little projects, the more the garden started to change and develop. And the more I did, the more weight I lost, and the more I started to grow. So I became the king of salads and growing lettuces.”

Planning for the future

But Andrew’s story isn’t just about food. It’s also about how gardening reshapes lives over time. His current, quarter-acre plot, perched 1,300 feet above sea level, is now a landscape of vegetable beds and a developing food forest, planned with future years in mind.

The latter of these, planned for the top of the hill to act simultaneously as windbreak, wildlife habitat and low-effort productive space, is a key part of his future-proofed plan.

“I said to someone recently, ‘There's going to be a day when I'll get too old and I won't be able to garden. And they said, ‘Well, what are you going to do with your garden then?’ And I said, ‘well, do you see the food forest I’m going to plant at the top?’.”

Accessibility is a constant theme in Andrew’s approach. After his spinal injury, he learned to garden from a wheeled seat, working in raised beds and containers he could reach. That experience shaped his philosophy: build gardens that adapt, that welcome difference, and that don’t rely on brute strength. “You have to deal with what you're given, and the garden that you're given,” he says. “You have to listen to it, and adapt to it.”

Now, he wants more people to benefit from gardening and build their connections with nature. “You meet lots of beautiful, wonderful people in gardening. They are the kindest community in this world. I think if we had a little bit more of that in all levels of our society, we'd be a great nation. We'd be absolutely wonderful – nothing could stop us.”

PHOTOS: Alun Callender; Jason Ingram; Getty

Blackberries are a good crop to grow in small gardens as they can be trained vertically, giving lots of productive growth from just a small area of ground.

Where to grow blackberries

Blackberries are hardy and grow throughout the UK. For best results grow in full sun, in fertile soil enriched with compost or well-rotted manure. Most blackberry varieties produce long vigorous stems, known as canes, and need to be trained on a system of wires. This can be against a wall or fence, or a post and wire framework within a garden or allotment. For pots, choose a compact variety that reaches around a metre in height.

How to sow blackberry seeds

To successfully grow blackberries in the UK it's best to buy plants that will fruit within a year or two, rather than raising a blackberry plant from seed, which can take several years to produce fruit.

If you're determined to grow blackberries from seed, buy seed or use seed from the berry of a named variety. Sow at any time of year in pots or trays of loam-based seed compost with added grit or sand to create an open, free-draining mix. Cover the seed lightly with grit. Stand in a cool place outside or in a cold frame and be patient as seedlings can take months to appear. Once large enough to handle, pot up the seedlings individually and grow on before planting out.

How to plant blackberries

Before planting, use vine eyes to attach support wires to a wall, fence or set of sturdy posts. Fix wires horizontally and space them 30cm apart, with the lowest one at 90cm from the ground.

Autumn is the best time to plant blackberries, so they become established in time for the growing season. This is the only time to plant bare-root blackberry plants. Pot grown plants are available all year-round but are still best planted in autumn.

Before planting, cut the stems to 30cm and soak the roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours. Plant at the same depth as growing previously – on bare-root plants look for the soil 'tide mark' at the base of the stem, and plant pot-grown plants so the top of the rootball sits at soil level. Firm the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly.

Spacing between plants depends on the ultimate size of a variety, which varies considerably. More compact blackberries like ‘Loch Ness’ can be spaced 2m apart while more vigorous varieties need spacing of up to 4m.

To grow blackberries in pots, choose compact varieties such as ‘Opal’ or ‘Coolaris Late’. Containers should be at least 30cm wide and deep. Use a soil-based potting compost with some added grit for drainage, and plant as per the instructions above. Compact varieties don't need to be trained up support wires.

How to care for blackberries

During the first growing season, water during dry spells to help plants establish. Also in the first year, cut off any flowering shoots to allow the plant to concentrate energy on establishing a good root system. Thereafter, only water plants in periods of drought, unless you're growing them in a pot.

Tie in new stems to the support as and when you need to.

Mulch soil in spring with well-rotted garden compost or manure, keeping the mulch clear of the stems. This boosts the soil’s water-holding capacity and suppresses weeds. Feeding is rarely necessary unless growth looks poor and stunted.

Pot-grown blackberries need regular watering – typically around three times a week during the growing season, and a fortnightly feed using liquid tomato food. In spring, scrape away the top 5cm of compost and replace with fresh, to replenish the natural stock of nutrients.

How to prune blackberries

Prune blackberries annually to remove the canes that have borne fruit, and to create space to tie in new ones that will bear fruit the next year.

Blackberries fruit on two-year-old canes which need to be cut out completely after fruiting, down to soil level. Do this anytime from when fruiting finishes until late winter. New canes should have been produced already and should be tied onto the support framework.

Make the job easier by keeping new canes separated from the fruiting ones. Either gather the new canes into two groups lying on the ground, to left and right, securing with pegs if necessary. Or, tie the fruiting canes onto the framework in a fan shape with a gap in the middle, where you can temporarily tie the new growth, so once the old canes are pruned out, the new ones spread out along the wires.

Pests and diseases

Blackberries are vigorous plants and aren’t susceptible to pests or diseases. Ripe fruit is likely to turn mouldy if left unpicked, or in prolonged wet weather. If this happens early in the fruiting period, pick off the mouldy fruits to avoid them affecting adjacent berries in the fruit cluster. In very hot summers the fruit can be burned.

Birds are likely to eat the ripe fruit. While there’s usually enough to go around, you can protect your crop by growing soft fruit plants in a netting enclosure or fruit cage, or hang bird scarers to deter them. Avoid covering plants with loose netting where birds are likely to get entangled.

What are hybrid berries?

Usually a cross between raspberries and blackberries, these include loganberries, tayberries, tummelberries and boysenberries. Fruiting is usually earlier than blackberries, but they’re grown in the same way.

Harvesting blackberries

For maximum sweetness, let the fruits swell to full ripeness with an even, dark colouring. Gently pull them off the canes and pop them into a shallow dish to avoid crushing them. Watch that the juice doesn’t stain your clothing.

Storing blackberries

Blackberries bruise very easily and won’t keep fresh for long. Store in the fridge where they’ll keep for a few days. They do, however, freeze well. Wash fruits and allow to drain in a sieve or colander. Spread out in a single layer on trays, pop in the freezer, then transfer to bags or tubs after a few hours. This keeps individual fruits separate so you can take a few out as needed.

Preparation and uses

Wash well and remove the hull (stem) before using to make summer-fruit pudding, coulis, smoothies, jam, pies, crumbles and home-made wine. Try this easy recipe for apple and blackberry crumble.

Blackberries varieties to grow

‘Adrienne’ – delicious fruit on strong, thornless stems. Height x Spread: 2.5m x 2.5m

• Buy blackberry ‘Adrienne’ from Otter Farm

‘Coolaris Late’ – extremely compact growth, suitable for containers. H x S: 1.2m x 1.2m

• Buy blackberry ‘Coolaris Late’ from Thompson & Morgan

‘Loch Katrine’ – extra-large and sweet-tasting fruits on a fairly compact growing bush. H x S: 2m x 2.5m

• Buy blackberry ‘Loch Katrine’ from Thompson & Morgan

‘Loch Ness’ – moderate size and vigour, with high yields of large fruits on thornless canes. H x S: 2m x 2.5m

• Buy blackberry 'Loch Ness' from Thompson & Morgan

‘Merton Thornless’ – large crops of well-flavoured berries on thornless stems. H x S: 2.5m x 3m

• Buy blackberry 'Merton Thornless' from Chris Bowers

‘Obsidian’ – one of the earliest to fruit, in July or sometimes even June, and is of moderate size. H x S: 2m x 2.5m

• Buy blackberry 'Obsidian' from Chris Bowers

Frequently asked questions

Can I grow a blackberry bush from a blackberry?

A single blackberry fruit contains multiple seeds that germinate readily, which is why bramble bushes are so abundant in the wild. However, seedlings from cultivated blackberries won’t be the same as their parent. Buying a blackberry plant of a named variety is the best way to guarantee a good plant that crops well.

How long does it take to grow a blackberry?

Blackberries fruit on two-year-old shoots, or canes, and should not be allowed to fruit in the first year after planting to allow the bush to establish fully. So, it takes at least two years from planting for a plant to start producing a crop.

Hosta foliage is perfect for cutting. With so many different colours and textures available in the genus you can add silver, variegated, heart-shapes, crinkly or smooth leaves to a flower arrangement.

Jump to: Best hostas to grow

How to grow hostas

Grow in moist, fertile soil in light or partial shade. Protect from slugs and snails. Mulch annually with well-rotted manure, compost or leaf mould and divide congested clumps every three to five years.

When do hostas flower?

Hostas are typically grown for their leaves, but they do produce flowers as well. They bloom in summer, bearing purple or white flowers on tall stems. The flowers can be quite pretty but they can look tatty after a few days – many gardeners remove hosta flowers so they can make the most of the foliage display.

Growing hostas: jump links

• Planting hostas
• Caring for hostas
• Propagating hostas
• Growing hostas: problem-solving
• Buying hostas
• Best hostas to grow

More on growing hostas:

• 15 of the best hostas to grow
• Hosta and fern pot display
• Cosmos, hosta and bedding pot display

Where to plant hostas

Hostas do best in a water-retentive, fertile soil. Very heavy clay and sandy soils should be improved by digging in plenty of well-rotted organic matter. Ideally the pH of the soil should be 6.5 but it's still worth growing them in acid or alkaline soils.

Choose a position of light or semi shade. Hostas are very hardy so will thrive in a north-facing garden or frost pocket.

As they thrive in a water-retentive soil they're ideal for planting in a bog garden but they should not be treated as an aquatic marginal. For this reason they are often planted by, but never in, a pond.

When growing in pots, ensure there are plenty of drainage holes as waterlogged soil will kill the plant. Avoid metal containers as hosta roots need to be kept cool in summer. For best results, grow in large pots so the compost dries out less frequently.

When to plant hostas

You can plant hostas all year round, but spring and autumn are preferable. It's best to avoid planting in mid-summer, when temperatures are high and the water table is low, as this can prevent the plant from establishing well. Mid-winter is also a bad time to plant hostas, as the ground is cold and often frozen.

How to plant hostas

Improve the soil by digging in well-rotted organic matter. Use a small garden spade to dig a hole the size of the root ball. Remove the plant from its pot and put the plant into the hole. Back fill with soil and firm in place. Water in well.

Use the same method to plant a hosta in a pot, ensuring you water the compost thoroughly and allow to drain.

In this video, Monty Don explains how to plant hostas:

How to care for hostas

Hostas will pretty much look after themselves once established, if growing in the right growing environment. In pots, it's important to not let the compost dry out. Boost fertility by applying a slow-release fertiliser each spring.

You may need to protect plants from slugs and snails – placing copper rings around the plants can help deter molluscs.

Cut back flower spikes when they have gone over and cut back hard in autumn. Mulching annually with well-rotted manure, compost or leaf mould will boost soil fertility and therefore plant health.

Richard Proctor of Sue Proctor Plants gives his three golden rules when growing hostas, in this video guide:

How to propagate hostas

Hostas will bulk up quickly, if given the right growing conditions. To increase your stock of plants, simply lift the plant carefully in autumn or spring with a garden fork, taking care not to damage the growing points. Place the plant on a potting bench and use a sharp knife to cut the plant into two. Very large plants can be divided further but do ensure you have about two healthy shoots on each division.

Some hostas have more fibrous roots than others, and these can be pulled, rather than cut apart.

Ideally replant the division and the parent plant back in the garden straight away. If this isn't possible, pot the divisions on, ensuring they're planted at the original depth they were when you dug them up.

Hostas grown in pots will quickly fill the growing space, so it's wise to divide them every third year or move them to a larger pot.

In this video clip from Gardeners' World, Monty explains how to divide and replant hostas:

Growing hostas: problem solving

Slugs and snails are the number one enemy of the hosta. In early spring, as the dramatic spears of new foliage push their way out of the ground, be on red alert. If you use slug pellets, ensure the active ingredient is ferric phosphate, as those containing metaldehyde are extremely harmful to wildlife and other animals. Never apply more pellets than recommended. The biological control Nemaslug is also a good option, as are copper bands, which can be placed around pots. You can also try setting beer traps or mulch the area with sharp gravel.

Remove as many slugs and snails by hand as possible, remembering they are more active at night.

Best hostas to grow

Hosta 'Cracker Crumbs'

Hosta 'Cracker Crumbs' is a miniature, fast-growing hosta. It has small, delicately pointed leaves in a vibrant shade of lime green, and each leaf has an attractive darker green edge. The flowers are dark mauve.

Height x Spread: 20cm x 50cm

• Buy Hosta 'Cracker Crumbs' from Bowden Hostas

Hosta 'El Niño'

Hosta 'El Niño' is a medium-sized hosta. The broad, pointed leaves appear thick and cushioned, and are an intense, smoky blue, with striking white margins. Lilac flowers appear in summer.

H x S: 40cm x 60cm

• Buy Hosta 'El Nino' from Sienna Hosta

Hosta 'Frosted Mouse Ears'

Hosta 'Frosted Mouse Ears' is a miniature hosta with thick, curled smoky-green foliage. This variety produces a dense cluster of small leaves, each with a contrasting lime green, irregular margin. The flowers are purple.

H x S: 20cm x 35cm

• Buy Hosta 'Frosted Mouse Ears' from Sienna Hosta

Hosta 'Hanky Panky'

'Hanky Panky' is a medium-sized hosta. The leaves are elongated and delicate, with thick white margins at the beginning of the season, then changing to a yellowish-green later in the summer. Also grows well in a sunny position.

H x S: 40cm x 90cm

• Buy Hosta 'Hanky Panky' from New Forest Hostas

Hosta 'Kikutii'

'Kikutii' is medium-sized, with attractive narrow, pointed leaves in a lush mid-green colour. Ideal for creating a contrast among broad-leaved hostas, it bears lavender-coloured flowers.

H x S: 40cm x 60cm

• Buy Hosta 'Kikutii' from Sienna Hosta

Hosta 'Love Pat'

Hosta 'Love Pat' is medium in size, with broad, thick foliage. Each leaf is an attractive smoky-blue colour – almost round – while the flowers are lilac.

H x S: 60cm x 60cm

• Buy Hosta 'Love Pat' from Larch Cottage Nurseries

Hosta 'One Man's Treasure'

'One Man's Treasure' has broad, yet pointed leaves, which are lush green in colour. It's a great variety for pots, where its unusual red stems can be used to full effect.

H x S: 30cm x 60cm

• Buy Hosta 'One Man's Treasure' from Bluebell Cottage Gardens Nursery

Hosta 'Revolution'

'Revolution' is large hosta with broad, pointed foliage. It produces a bright contrast in shady areas, as the deep-green leaves are variegated with a cream-coloured central flare. The lilac-mauve flowers appear in summer.

H x S: 50cm x 60cm

• Buy Hosta 'Revoution' from Ballyrobert Gardens

Hosta 'Sunshine Glory'

Hosta 'Sunshine Glory' is a medium variety, growing to around 40cm in height. It has very dramatic, large heart-shaped foliage in a fresh, spring-green colour, brightened with irregular white margins.

H x S: 50cm x 60cm

• Buy Hosta 'Sunshine Glory' from Dorset Perennials

Hosta 'Halcyon'

‘Halcyon’ makes a dense clump of blue-green, oval foliage with pale lavender flowers in July to August. This is also a slug-resistant hosta variety. This medium-sized variety reaches a height and spread of around

H x S: 50cm x 20cm

• Buy Hosta 'Halcyon' from Claire Austin

Hosta 'Golden Tiara'

‘Golden Tiara’ has neat, rounded, dark green leaves edged in gold, with masses of purple flowers on upright stems in July.

H x S: 50cm x 50cm.

• Buy Hosta 'Golden Tiara' from Primrose

Hosta 'Blue Mouse Ears'

'Blue Mouse Ears' is a slug-resistant hosta with cupped, blue leaves and lavender-blue flowers from July to August.

H x S: 30cm x 30cm

• Buy Hosta 'Blue Mouse Ears' from Claire Austin

Hosta 'Frances Williams'

Hosta ‘Frances Williams’ has heart-shaped, blue-green leaves, edged gold in summer. It then bears white flowers from June to July. It's also a slug-resistant hosta variety.

H x S: 60cm x 1m

• Buy Hosta 'Frances Williams' from Beth Chatto Gardens

Hosta 'Sum and Substance'

This huge hosta bears very large slightly cupped leaves in chartreuse to gold. Lavender flowers appear in July.

H x S: 75cm x 1.2m

• Buy Hosta 'Sum and Substance' from Beth Chatto Gardens